HY Hyaluron: Part II

How hyaluronic acid in skin care products differs from the application of filler injections.

September 12, 2022
When you come to our studio, I and the other self-employed doctors at HY STUDIO will discuss with you not only effective therapies that restore skin and facial structure, but also measures to prevent skin aging. Inevitably, we come to talk about hyaluron.

Magic from the test tube

We are on the trail of hyaluronic acid and, in order to fully understand its effectiveness, we must take a narrow look at the structure of the molecule. The longer these molecules are cross-linked, the greater their molecular weight. This is expressed in Daltons (Da). From a weight of 1000 kDa, we speak of high molecular weight hyaluronic acids. This hyaluronic acid is too large to penetrate the skin. It remains on the surface and moisturizes there, at least for a short time. Low-molecular hyaluronic acid with less than 5o kDa penetrates the skin and can develop its effectiveness there. So-called oligohyaluronic acid is even smaller and can therefore reach the deeper layers of the skin. However, this is the crux of the matter, or in our case, a few problems that are not yet clear.

A look at the nitty gritty

The large number of hyaluronic products can really make it difficult to choose. It’s worth taking a look at the guts, or rather, the INCIology. First, just by looking at the INCIs (that’s the table of contents on skin care products), we don’t know what molecular size of hyaluronic acid is used. If Sodium Hyaluronate, Hyaluronic Acid, Hydrolyzed or Sodium Hyaluronate are listed, then you know hyaluronic acid is present in your product. However, it is up to the manufacturer to declare in what quantity and with what molecular size the valuable ingredient has entered the product. And then we are confronted with a second problem. It is true that hyaluronic acid brings us moisture on or even better in the skin. However, there is also evidence that with the wonderful penetration of the skin of the smaller molecules and the good water binding, other foreign substances, such as preservatives, can also get into the skin.

What does science say?

A look at the science now helps to understand the limitation of topically applied hyaluronic acid (topical, by the way, is such a nice dermatologist word to describe something being applied to the skin). To slow skin aging and effectively address it below, we need a basic understanding of what causes our skin to age. To a large extent, external factors have an impact and UV light is a major part of that. Smoking, metabolic changes and ultimately genetics determine the pace of our skin aging. Without going too deeply into the details, everything ultimately results in a loss of collagen and hyaluronic acid. Even though the hyaluronic acid in a well-formulated lotion may ultimately reduce wrinkles by better hydrating the skin, it does not prevent or even reverse the actual structural damage to the body’s own hyaluronic acid. I will describe what actually helps in this case in another article. But this much is already revealed: Retinol and laser therapy are part of it, as well as the thread lift. To dissolve you now, however, why we are nevertheless big fans of hyaluronic acid: With the right filler, such as a skin booster, hyaluronic acid can be carefully injected under the skin, where its water-absorbing effect can gently and aesthetically plump up the skin. With the correct injection technique, this can even promote the body’s own production of collagen. Therefore, I see hyaluronic preparations to be applied to the skin as a kind of cure to reduce feelings of dryness. However, it is not a therapy to actually reverse skin aging.

Your Dr. Sophia

HY Hyaluron: Part I

This goes under the skin

9th August 2022

At HY STUDIO we offer a wide range of minimally invasive beauty treatments. The best known, besides botulinum therapy, is the injection with fillers. You surely know that our fillers, which we use to build up and restore parts of the face, are made of hyaluronic acid. Hyaluronic acid is a real magic substance. It occurs naturally in our body and gives firmness and structure to the tissues.

Prevention, Restoration, Reconstruction

Hyaluronic fillers are a way to restore volume defects, contour the face and hydrate the skin. The charming effect of hyaluronic acid, in addition to building structure, is its water-binding effect. This is, among other things, the reason why we use only advanced filler preparations from Galderma Restylane and only extremely precise techniques during injections. This is how we only can ensure that the so-called filler migration does not occur. This would mean that the treated areas would look swollen and unnatural. Since our patients have a wide variety of needs, fillers also lend themselves well to combination with other methods and techniques, often even in a single treatment. After all, our skin needs time to absorb the filler into the tissue after a treatment. In this case, less is often even more and can lead to the most beautiful results with repeated careful interventions. That is why my colleagues and I take time for a detailed consultation and planning of the treatment, which for this reason may well be planned over several appointments.

The chemistry of effectiveness

Chemically, hyaluronic acid is a string of sugar chains and an important component of our connective tissue. With Restylane products, we use two different technologies to give you the best possible treatment. Gels of the so-called NASHATM (Non-animal stabilized hyaluronic acid) technology have a solid structure and allow precise placement of the gels. I use them for restoring and modulating facial areas, among other things. The gels in the BTTM (Balance Technology) family integrate particularly well into the tissue, allowing soft and smooth distribution. In both product classes, there are again different filler preparations, which are then selected depending on your wishes and needs. Then it is also decided with which technique and into which tissue layer the filler will be injected.

What if ...

Let’s now talk about an important topic that should be part of every good consultation. As a doctor, I may accompany you during your first minimally invasive procedure. That can be quite exciting. It takes trust to let someone get that close to your face. Your trust is important and encourages me and my colleagues to explain the possible risks of filler treatment before every treatment. Although the probability of complications is negligible, fillers are (as the name suggests) filling substances. It therefore requires good anatomical knowledge on the part of the practitioner in order to spare nerves and vessels. Unlike silicone fillers, for example, hyaluronic fillers can be dissolved using a process known as hylase. The body’s own tissue is not permanently damaged during application. Since hylase treatment is reserved for doctors, it is all the more important to have injections performed only in a medical practice. Together with my other self-employed colleagues at HY STUDIO, we can guarantee the best possible safety for you.

Your Dr. Sophia




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